How to Dye with Acorns

natural dye, plant dye, acorn dye

You may have noticed that your local oak trees have begun to grow heavy with acorns. The coming of acorns always makes me feel glee. They signify that summer is coming to and end and cooler autumn days are on the way. In this tutorial, I will show you how to dye with acorns.

How to dye with acorns, natural dye with acorns

Acorns make a potent dye that is easy to create and use. It is a great dye for those who are new to natural dyeing. A range of colors from tans to browns and greys to blacks can all be achieved with acorns.

Any type of acorn can be used to create dye. I used a combination of four different varieties for this tutorial. The amount of acorns used is also very flexible. The more that are used, the darker the dye will be. I used about one pound for this tutorial.

Supplies:

  • Stainless steel or aluminum pot
  • Acorns
  • Fine Mesh Strainer
  • Cheese Cloth or Muslin
  • Large Bowl or a second pot
  • Mordanted fiber
  • Iron water (optional)

Check out this post if you’d like to learn more about pre-treating fabric with soy or click here for a mordanting tutorial.

Step 1

Place acorns in a pot and cover with water. Cover with lid and heat on high until the water begins to boil. Boil for an hour. Then, let the mixture rest for a couple of hours. Check the color. If you are satisfied, you can move on to step two. If you would like a darker dye, bring the mixture to a boil again. Continue to boil the mixture until the dye reaches the depth of color you are looking for.

I usually boil acorn dye on and off for around 24 hours, checking the water level frequently to be sure the acorns are still covered. However, you can check the color as you go and stop heating when you’re satisfied with the color.

Step 2

Line a strainer with double layered cheese cloth or muslin. Lay the strainer over a bowl or pot and pour the dye through the strainer so that all of the solids are caught in the strainer.

At this point, you can compost the acorns or use them to make a second dye bath that can be added to the first.

Note, in the photo above, I did not line my strainer with cloth. I found that this let too much sediment through and ended up re-straining it through cloth.

Step 3

Wipe out or rinse the dye pot so that there are no little bits or solids left. Then, pour the dye back into the pot.

Step 4

Add the damp fiber you wish to dye. Then, Simmer on medium-high heat for 1-12 hours, stirring checking the color frequently.

The amount of time the fabric needs to dye is dependent upon the depth of color you are trying to achieve.

Always remember that the fiber will be about three shades lighter after it is rinsed and dried.

Note, some of the photos above show that there are acorns in the pot as I’m checking the color of the fabric. When testing a dye, I do often leave the dye stuff in the pot with the fabric. However, I don’t recommend this method as it usually creates uneven results on the fabric.

Step 5

Once you are satisfied with the color, remove the fiber and wring out as much excess dye as possible. Allow it to dry out of direct sunlight.

I like to let my fabric dry then sit and cure for a few days before rinsing it. However, it can also be rinsed and used immediately after being dyed.

Step 6 (optional)

This step is optional and is only necessary if you would like to shift the colors from tans/browns to greys/blacks.

In order to shift the colors, the fiber will need to be dipped in iron water. Iron water can be made by soaking rusty metal in water for a few days until the water becomes the color of iron or by dissolving some ferrous sulfate crystals in water.

I like to start with a weak iron water solution and add more if needed. Iron water should be made in a glass, plastic or stainless steel vessel.

Fill the vessel about 2/3 of the way full with warm water and mix in 1/2 tsp of ferrous sulfate. Stir until the crystals have dissolved. The water should change to a rust color within seconds. Then, place the damp fabric in the iron water and swoosh it around for a few seconds before taking it out and rinsing. If the color is not dark enough, re-dip the fabric or add a bit more iron and then re-dip.

When you’re satisfied with the color, rinse and squeeze as much of the excess liquid out as possible. Then allow the fabric to dry out of direct sunlight.

Note, iron is a mild skin irritant and it will turn the skin around your nails a dark brown/black. I definitely recommend wearing gloves when working with iron water.

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

How to Bundle Dyeing (with Kids)

natural dye, bundle dye, ecoprint

In this tutorial, I will show you how to bundle dye with flowers and food waste.

Bundle dyeing, also known as eco printing, is a natural dye method that involves laying plant material (dye stuff) onto a piece of fabric, rolling it, bundling it with string then steaming or submerging the bundle in hot water.

Flowers, leaves, bark, food waste or dye extracts and can all be used to create beautiful bundle dyes. There are various ways to roll a bundle to achieve different patterns and results.

I’m always looking for ways to allow my son to be more involved in my dyeing process and I’ve found that bundle dyeing is a great option. It allows him to have a hands-on sensory experience while creating something that he will be able to wear or use.

Bundle dyeing is also an excellent method for covering stains on a well loved t-shirt. For this tutorial I will be covering stains on a few of my son’s favorite white tees.

Supplies:

  • Mordanted fabric or clothing
  • Food waste, flowers, leaves or other dye material
  • Cotton string
  • Pot & lid that will not be used to cook food again
  • Steaming tray or basket

For more on mordanting, check out this post on how to pre-treat fiber with soy milk or click here for a mordanting tutorial.

Step 1

Gather your dye stuff. For this tutorial I have used food waste (red and yellow onion skins, avocado skins + blueberries) and flowers (sulphur cosmos, bitterweed + coreopsis).

Berries are known as a fugitive dye which means the color they give will fade. I chose to include them in this project because it was more about having fun and being creative than the final product. I also knew my son would enjoy squishing them (he totally did).

Step 2

Dampen fabric by soaking it in water for at least 30 minutes.

Step 3

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Remove the fabric from the water and wring it out well. Then lay it on a flat surface, smoothing out as many wrinkles as possible.

Step 4

At this point, there are a couple options. You can lay dye stuff on half of the fabric then fold the blank part over to cover it. This will create a mirror image on the two sides of your fabric. Or you can lay your dye stuff on the entire piece of fabric.

When I am working with a large piece of fabric I will often choose to create a mirror image. However, for smaller pieces I often choose to cover the entire piece with dye stuff.

Step 5

There are also a couple of options when it comes to rolling and bundling your fabric.

Option 1:

Roll your fabric up as tightly and evenly as possible. It should look long and thin, like a snake. Then starting at one end, tightly roll it again so that it looks like a disc with a spiral in the center.

how to bundle dye, natural dye
first roll
  • second roll

Option 2

This option works best for small pieces or if your fabric has been folded in half.

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Lay a stick or dowel down at one end of your fabric then roll your fabric tightly around it.

Step 6

Secure the bundle with cotton string.

Step 7

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Place the bundle into the steamer, cover and steam for 30 minutes – 1 hour. Check on the water level often to be sure it doesn’t run out – fabric will burn.

Step 8

Allow the bundle to rest for hours before unrolling. I like to let mine sit overnight.

Step 9

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Unroll your bundle and remove the dye stuff. It can be rinsed right away or you can let it sit and cure for a day or so before rinsing.

Enjoy your bundle wrapped goodies!

how to bundle dye, natural dye
Shirt that was bundled with onion skins, avocado peels and blueberries
how to bundle dye, natural dye
Shirt that was dyed with flowers

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

Natural Dye: Cellulose Fibers

Soy Milk as a Natural Dye Binder

How to Pretreat Fabric with Soy Milk
Mordanting is an important step in the natural dyeing process. It is a pre-treatment that facilitates a stronger bond between the fiber and the dye. Soy isn’t actually a mordant but it does act as a binding agent between the fabric and dye. It is one of my favorite methods because it is non-toxic and fairly easy. I like to use soy treated fabrics when I’m dyeing with pink and yellow dyes as it helps the color take on an earthier tone. In this tutorial I will show you how to pre-treat fiber with soy milk.

What you will need:

  • Dried soy beans or store bought soy milk
  • jar or bowl
  • stainless steel pot or plastic bucket
  • mesh strainer
  • nut milk bag or cheese cloth
  • blender
  • spoon
  • water

Step 1

To pretreat with soy milk you will need to make or buy unsweetened, unflavored soy milk. If you are going to use store bought soy milk, skip ahead to step 4.

How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

I prefer to make soy milk as it is very simple, less wasteful and much more cost effective. To make your own you will need organic dried soy beans, a bowl or jar, water and a blender.

Start by pouring the dried beans in to a bowl or jar and covering with water. I use about half a cup of soy beans to make a 3 gallon bucket of milk. You will want a 2:1 water to bean ratio.

soy milk binder for natural dye, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

Leave the beans to soak for at least 12 hours. You will notice that they will become plump.

How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk, soy milk dye binder

Step 2

soy milk for natural dyeing, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

Drain and rinse the beans before adding them to the blender with a few cups of water. Blend on high for 1-2 minutes.

Step 3

soy milk as a natural dye binder, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

Strain the solids from the milk by pouring it through a nutmilk bag or a few layers of double cheese cloth. I like to pour over a mesh strainer to catch any spills.

Soy milk natural dye binder, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

After all of the milk has been strained, I squeeze my nut milk bag to get every last drop of liquid.

Step 4

soy milk natural dye binder, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

Now the milk will need to be watered down. If you’re using store bought milk, add about 4 cups of milk for every gallon of water.

I don’t usually measure the amount of water I add at this point. Instead, I just fill the vessel I will use to mordant almost full with water.

Stir well to combine the milk and water.

Hooray! You’ve made soy milk!

Optional Step

At this point, I like to add tannin to my soy milk. It is completely optional but I find that it helps create deeper colors.

My favorite tannin to use is gallnut because it is the clearest tannin.

If you’d like to add tannin to your soy milk follow these simple steps:

  • Add a few tablespoons of tannin to a bowl or jar
  • Mix with hot water to dissolve
  • Mix with cold water to cool
  • Mix tannin mixture into soy milk

Step 5

Soy milk natural dye binder, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

At this point, you can enter your pre-dampened fabric into the soy milk.

Store the milk in a cool place and allow the fabric to soak for at least 12 hours, stirring occasionally.

Step 6

Remove the fabric from the soy milk and wring as much of the milk out as possible. Running the fabric through a spin cycle in the washing machine works well to remove the excess liquid.

Hang or lay flat to dry.

Step 7

When the fabric is dry, dip it into the same soy milk that you previously used. Swoosh it around for a minute or two to make sure that it is evenly coated.

Soy milk natural dye binder, How to pre-treat mordant with soy milk

Repeat steps 6 & 7 three or four times. Then, allow the fabric to sit and cure for at least one week before dyeing.

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

Natural Dye: Cellulose Fibers