How to Scour Cellulose Fiber Before Natural Dyeing

how to scour, natural dyes

Scouring is the process of removing sizing, wax, grease and dirt from fiber by soaking it in a heated bath of water, a combination of detergents and white vinegar. In this tutorial, I will show you how to scour in a few easy steps.

Scouring is one of the most important steps to natural dyeing because it allows the dye to penetrate the fabric more easily and evenly.

Scouring fabric before naturally dyeing

What you need:

Stainless steel pot
Soda Ash
Synthrapol
White Vinegar
Spoon for stirring
Heat Source
Water

Step 1

Weigh your dry fiber and take a photo or write the weight down. You will need to know our weight of fiber (WOF) throughout the scouring, mordanting and dyeing process.

Step 2

how to scour before natural dye

Fill a stainless steel pot with enough water so that the fiber can move freely. Place the pot of water on a burner and turn heat on medium-high.

Step 3

Measure 1% WOF soda ash & 1% WOF synthrapol.

Add the synthrapol and soda ash to the water.

Soda ash has a high pH that ranges from 11.3 – 11.8.

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A note on the importance of vinegar while scouring

If you are planning to mordant your fiber using the tannin and aluminum acetate method I share. it is important that your fiber is neutralized before entering into the tannin bath. If the fiber has a high pH when entered into the tannin bath, it will cause the tannin to shift to a much darker color.

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Step 4

Stir well to fully dissolve and incorporate the soda ash, synthrapol into the dye bath.

Step 5

How to scour cellulose fiber

Turn the heat up to bring water to a simmer. Add the fiber and press down into the water until it is completely submerged. Allow the fiber to simmer in the scour bath for at least an hour.

Stir occasionally, being sure that all of the fiber stays submerged.

You should begin to notice that the water is turning a yellowish color.

Step 6

Remove the pot from the heat source and allow to cool. Once cooled, remove fibers and rinse very well.

I like to run my freshly scoured fiber through a complete wash cycle without any detergent.

Step 7

Fill a pot or bowl with water (the temperature isn’t important) and add vinegar, about 2 Tablespoons per half pound of fabric. Stir to incorporate then add the rinsed scoured fabric and allow it to sit in the bath for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly.

Scouring cellulose fiber before naturally dyeing

Once rinsed, scoured fabric can be immediately added to a mordant bath or dried to use later. Click here to learn how to mordant!

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

Natural Dye: Cellulose Fibers

How to Natural Dye with Avocados

natural dye, avocado dye, plant dye

It’s hard to imagine that avocados could get any better… until you learn that you can dye with them! Both avocado skins and stones (pits) can be used to make dye that ranges in colors from tans to peach to pink to rust. Greyish lavender tones can also be made by dipping avocado dyed fiber into an iron water after bath. In this tutorial, I will show you how to dye with avocados.

Supplies

  • Aluminum or stainless steel dye pot (a pot should not be used for food after it has been used for dye)
  • Bowl or additional pot
  • Clean avocado stones or skins (fresh, frozen or dried)
  • Water
  • Spoon
  • Sieve
  • Cheese cloth or cotton muslin
  • Fiber that has been scoured and mordanted or pretreated with soy milk

Check out my post about pre-treating fabric with soy milk.

Step 1

Place avocado skins or stones into a pot and cover them with water. The amount of stones or skins that should be used depends on the depth of color you are trying to achieve. For a medium adult t-shirt, I use 3-4 stones or around 10 skins for a light to medium pink. Less stones or skins will give a lighter color and more will give a deeper color.

Step 2

How to dye with avocados

Heat the stones or skins on a low temperature for 1-2 hours. You might be tempted to turn up the heat to get faster results. However, heating avocado dye at a higher temperature causes the color to shift from pink to orange/brown. You should notice that color is beginning to be released into the water after 15-30 minutes of gentle heating.

Step 3

How to dye with avocados

Turn the heat off and allow the dye to rest for at least a couple of hours. I like to let mine sit over night. I sometimes choose to reheat them at a low temperature one more time if I feel that the color is not as deep as I would like it to be.

Step 4

How to dye with avocados

Now the dye is ready to be separated from the stones or skins. Line the mesh strainer with either a double layer of cheese cloth or cotton muslin and pour set it on another bowl or pot. Pour the dye through the cloth lined strainer. The strainer should catch all of the solids and the resulting liquid should be clear and free of debris. I like to squeeze the solid to get every last drop of dye out. The solids can then be saved to use in another dye pot or composted.

Step 5

Wipe out or wash out your dye pot to be sure that it is free of debris. Then pour the dye back in.

Step 6

Natural Dye using avocados

Wet out your fiber by soaking it in water for at least 30 minutes.

Step 7

Add water to avocado dye so that your fiber or fabric will have enough room to freely move around while remaining covered by dye. You might worry that adding water will weaken the dye. However, the same amount of dye particles will remain in the dye regardless of how much water is added. It might take a little longer for the dye particles to find your fiber but they eventually will.

Step 8

Squeeze out the excess water and place your fiber into the dye. Give it a good stir and make sure that all of the air bubbles have been pushed out so it can sink under the dye.

Step 9

Heat the dye and fiber or fabric on a low heat for around an hour, stirring and checking the color frequently. Stirring often helps reduce the chance that the fabric will be dyed unevenly.

To shift the color to a deeper, rusty tone, add a few teaspoons of baking soda to the dye and stir well to dissolve.

Step 10

How to dye with avocados

Remove the fabric from the dye and squeeze out as much of the excess dye as possible. If you’re satisfied with the color, you can wash your fabric with a gentle detergent and hang to dry or in the dryer according to your fabric’s care instructions.

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

Natural Dye: Cellulose Fibers

How to Dye with Acorns

natural dye, plant dye, acorn dye

You may have noticed that your local oak trees have begun to grow heavy with acorns. The coming of acorns always makes me feel glee. They signify that summer is coming to and end and cooler autumn days are on the way. In this tutorial, I will show you how to dye with acorns.

How to dye with acorns, natural dye with acorns

Acorns make a potent dye that is easy to create and use. It is a great dye for those who are new to natural dyeing. A range of colors from tans to browns and greys to blacks can all be achieved with acorns.

Any type of acorn can be used to create dye. I used a combination of four different varieties for this tutorial. The amount of acorns used is also very flexible. The more that are used, the darker the dye will be. I used about one pound for this tutorial.

Supplies:

  • Stainless steel or aluminum pot
  • Acorns
  • Fine Mesh Strainer
  • Cheese Cloth or Muslin
  • Large Bowl or a second pot
  • Mordanted fiber
  • Iron water (optional)

Check out this post if you’d like to learn more about pre-treating fabric with soy or click here for a mordanting tutorial.

Step 1

Place acorns in a pot and cover with water. Cover with lid and heat on high until the water begins to boil. Boil for an hour. Then, let the mixture rest for a couple of hours. Check the color. If you are satisfied, you can move on to step two. If you would like a darker dye, bring the mixture to a boil again. Continue to boil the mixture until the dye reaches the depth of color you are looking for.

I usually boil acorn dye on and off for around 24 hours, checking the water level frequently to be sure the acorns are still covered. However, you can check the color as you go and stop heating when you’re satisfied with the color.

Step 2

Line a strainer with double layered cheese cloth or muslin. Lay the strainer over a bowl or pot and pour the dye through the strainer so that all of the solids are caught in the strainer.

At this point, you can compost the acorns or use them to make a second dye bath that can be added to the first.

Note, in the photo above, I did not line my strainer with cloth. I found that this let too much sediment through and ended up re-straining it through cloth.

Step 3

Wipe out or rinse the dye pot so that there are no little bits or solids left. Then, pour the dye back into the pot.

Step 4

Add the damp fiber you wish to dye. Then, Simmer on medium-high heat for 1-12 hours, stirring checking the color frequently.

The amount of time the fabric needs to dye is dependent upon the depth of color you are trying to achieve.

Always remember that the fiber will be about three shades lighter after it is rinsed and dried.

Note, some of the photos above show that there are acorns in the pot as I’m checking the color of the fabric. When testing a dye, I do often leave the dye stuff in the pot with the fabric. However, I don’t recommend this method as it usually creates uneven results on the fabric.

Step 5

Once you are satisfied with the color, remove the fiber and wring out as much excess dye as possible. Allow it to dry out of direct sunlight.

I like to let my fabric dry then sit and cure for a few days before rinsing it. However, it can also be rinsed and used immediately after being dyed.

Step 6 (optional)

This step is optional and is only necessary if you would like to shift the colors from tans/browns to greys/blacks.

In order to shift the colors, the fiber will need to be dipped in iron water. Iron water can be made by soaking rusty metal in water for a few days until the water becomes the color of iron or by dissolving some ferrous sulfate crystals in water.

I like to start with a weak iron water solution and add more if needed. Iron water should be made in a glass, plastic or stainless steel vessel.

Fill the vessel about 2/3 of the way full with warm water and mix in 1/2 tsp of ferrous sulfate. Stir until the crystals have dissolved. The water should change to a rust color within seconds. Then, place the damp fabric in the iron water and swoosh it around for a few seconds before taking it out and rinsing. If the color is not dark enough, re-dip the fabric or add a bit more iron and then re-dip.

When you’re satisfied with the color, rinse and squeeze as much of the excess liquid out as possible. Then allow the fabric to dry out of direct sunlight.

Note, iron is a mild skin irritant and it will turn the skin around your nails a dark brown/black. I definitely recommend wearing gloves when working with iron water.

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

How to Bundle Dyeing (with Kids)

natural dye, bundle dye, ecoprint

In this tutorial, I will show you how to bundle dye with flowers and food waste.

Bundle dyeing, also known as eco printing, is a natural dye method that involves laying plant material (dye stuff) onto a piece of fabric, rolling it, bundling it with string then steaming or submerging the bundle in hot water.

Flowers, leaves, bark, food waste or dye extracts and can all be used to create beautiful bundle dyes. There are various ways to roll a bundle to achieve different patterns and results.

I’m always looking for ways to allow my son to be more involved in my dyeing process and I’ve found that bundle dyeing is a great option. It allows him to have a hands-on sensory experience while creating something that he will be able to wear or use.

Bundle dyeing is also an excellent method for covering stains on a well loved t-shirt. For this tutorial I will be covering stains on a few of my son’s favorite white tees.

Supplies:

  • Mordanted fabric or clothing
  • Food waste, flowers, leaves or other dye material
  • Cotton string
  • Pot & lid that will not be used to cook food again
  • Steaming tray or basket

For more on mordanting, check out this post on how to pre-treat fiber with soy milk or click here for a mordanting tutorial.

Step 1

Gather your dye stuff. For this tutorial I have used food waste (red and yellow onion skins, avocado skins + blueberries) and flowers (sulphur cosmos, bitterweed + coreopsis).

Berries are known as a fugitive dye which means the color they give will fade. I chose to include them in this project because it was more about having fun and being creative than the final product. I also knew my son would enjoy squishing them (he totally did).

Step 2

Dampen fabric by soaking it in water for at least 30 minutes.

Step 3

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Remove the fabric from the water and wring it out well. Then lay it on a flat surface, smoothing out as many wrinkles as possible.

Step 4

At this point, there are a couple options. You can lay dye stuff on half of the fabric then fold the blank part over to cover it. This will create a mirror image on the two sides of your fabric. Or you can lay your dye stuff on the entire piece of fabric.

When I am working with a large piece of fabric I will often choose to create a mirror image. However, for smaller pieces I often choose to cover the entire piece with dye stuff.

Step 5

There are also a couple of options when it comes to rolling and bundling your fabric.

Option 1:

Roll your fabric up as tightly and evenly as possible. It should look long and thin, like a snake. Then starting at one end, tightly roll it again so that it looks like a disc with a spiral in the center.

how to bundle dye, natural dye
first roll
  • second roll

Option 2

This option works best for small pieces or if your fabric has been folded in half.

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Lay a stick or dowel down at one end of your fabric then roll your fabric tightly around it.

Step 6

Secure the bundle with cotton string.

Step 7

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Place the bundle into the steamer, cover and steam for 30 minutes – 1 hour. Check on the water level often to be sure it doesn’t run out – fabric will burn.

Step 8

Allow the bundle to rest for hours before unrolling. I like to let mine sit overnight.

Step 9

how to bundle dye, natural dye

Unroll your bundle and remove the dye stuff. It can be rinsed right away or you can let it sit and cure for a day or so before rinsing.

Enjoy your bundle wrapped goodies!

how to bundle dye, natural dye
Shirt that was bundled with onion skins, avocado peels and blueberries
how to bundle dye, natural dye
Shirt that was dyed with flowers

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

Natural Dye: Cellulose Fibers

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