How to Scour Cellulose Fiber Before Natural Dyeing

how to scour, natural dyes

Scouring is the process of removing sizing, wax, grease and dirt from fiber by soaking it in a heated bath of water, a combination of detergents and white vinegar. In this tutorial, I will show you how to scour in a few easy steps.

Scouring is one of the most important steps to natural dyeing because it allows the dye to penetrate the fabric more easily and evenly.

Scouring fabric before naturally dyeing

What you need:

Stainless steel pot
Soda Ash
Synthrapol
White Vinegar
Spoon for stirring
Heat Source
Water

Step 1

Weigh your dry fiber and take a photo or write the weight down. You will need to know our weight of fiber (WOF) throughout the scouring, mordanting and dyeing process.

Step 2

how to scour before natural dye

Fill a stainless steel pot with enough water so that the fiber can move freely. Place the pot of water on a burner and turn heat on medium-high.

Step 3

Measure 1% WOF soda ash & 1% WOF synthrapol.

Add the synthrapol and soda ash to the water.

Soda ash has a high pH that ranges from 11.3 – 11.8.

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A note on the importance of vinegar while scouring

If you are planning to mordant your fiber using the tannin and aluminum acetate method I share. it is important that your fiber is neutralized before entering into the tannin bath. If the fiber has a high pH when entered into the tannin bath, it will cause the tannin to shift to a much darker color.

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Step 4

Stir well to fully dissolve and incorporate the soda ash, synthrapol into the dye bath.

Step 5

How to scour cellulose fiber

Turn the heat up to bring water to a simmer. Add the fiber and press down into the water until it is completely submerged. Allow the fiber to simmer in the scour bath for at least an hour.

Stir occasionally, being sure that all of the fiber stays submerged.

You should begin to notice that the water is turning a yellowish color.

Step 6

Remove the pot from the heat source and allow to cool. Once cooled, remove fibers and rinse very well.

I like to run my freshly scoured fiber through a complete wash cycle without any detergent.

Step 7

Fill a pot or bowl with water (the temperature isn’t important) and add vinegar, about 2 Tablespoons per half pound of fabric. Stir to incorporate then add the rinsed scoured fabric and allow it to sit in the bath for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly.

Scouring cellulose fiber before naturally dyeing

Once rinsed, scoured fabric can be immediately added to a mordant bath or dried to use later. Click here to learn how to mordant!

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

Natural Dye: Cellulose Fibers