How to Dye with Acorns

natural dye, plant dye, acorn dye

You may have noticed that your local oak trees have begun to grow heavy with acorns. The coming of acorns always makes me feel glee. They signify that summer is coming to and end and cooler autumn days are on the way. In this tutorial, I will show you how to dye with acorns.

How to dye with acorns, natural dye with acorns

Acorns make a potent dye that is easy to create and use. It is a great dye for those who are new to natural dyeing. A range of colors from tans to browns and greys to blacks can all be achieved with acorns.

Any type of acorn can be used to create dye. I used a combination of four different varieties for this tutorial. The amount of acorns used is also very flexible. The more that are used, the darker the dye will be. I used about one pound for this tutorial.

Supplies:

  • Stainless steel or aluminum pot
  • Acorns
  • Fine Mesh Strainer
  • Cheese Cloth or Muslin
  • Large Bowl or a second pot
  • Mordanted fiber
  • Iron water (optional)

Check out this post if you’d like to learn more about pre-treating fabric with soy or click here for a mordanting tutorial.

Step 1

Place acorns in a pot and cover with water. Cover with lid and heat on high until the water begins to boil. Boil for an hour. Then, let the mixture rest for a couple of hours. Check the color. If you are satisfied, you can move on to step two. If you would like a darker dye, bring the mixture to a boil again. Continue to boil the mixture until the dye reaches the depth of color you are looking for.

I usually boil acorn dye on and off for around 24 hours, checking the water level frequently to be sure the acorns are still covered. However, you can check the color as you go and stop heating when you’re satisfied with the color.

Step 2

Line a strainer with double layered cheese cloth or muslin. Lay the strainer over a bowl or pot and pour the dye through the strainer so that all of the solids are caught in the strainer.

At this point, you can compost the acorns or use them to make a second dye bath that can be added to the first.

Note, in the photo above, I did not line my strainer with cloth. I found that this let too much sediment through and ended up re-straining it through cloth.

Step 3

Wipe out or rinse the dye pot so that there are no little bits or solids left. Then, pour the dye back into the pot.

Step 4

Add the damp fiber you wish to dye. Then, Simmer on medium-high heat for 1-12 hours, stirring checking the color frequently.

The amount of time the fabric needs to dye is dependent upon the depth of color you are trying to achieve.

Always remember that the fiber will be about three shades lighter after it is rinsed and dried.

Note, some of the photos above show that there are acorns in the pot as I’m checking the color of the fabric. When testing a dye, I do often leave the dye stuff in the pot with the fabric. However, I don’t recommend this method as it usually creates uneven results on the fabric.

Step 5

Once you are satisfied with the color, remove the fiber and wring out as much excess dye as possible. Allow it to dry out of direct sunlight.

I like to let my fabric dry then sit and cure for a few days before rinsing it. However, it can also be rinsed and used immediately after being dyed.

Step 6 (optional)

This step is optional and is only necessary if you would like to shift the colors from tans/browns to greys/blacks.

In order to shift the colors, the fiber will need to be dipped in iron water. Iron water can be made by soaking rusty metal in water for a few days until the water becomes the color of iron or by dissolving some ferrous sulfate crystals in water.

I like to start with a weak iron water solution and add more if needed. Iron water should be made in a glass, plastic or stainless steel vessel.

Fill the vessel about 2/3 of the way full with warm water and mix in 1/2 tsp of ferrous sulfate. Stir until the crystals have dissolved. The water should change to a rust color within seconds. Then, place the damp fabric in the iron water and swoosh it around for a few seconds before taking it out and rinsing. If the color is not dark enough, re-dip the fabric or add a bit more iron and then re-dip.

When you’re satisfied with the color, rinse and squeeze as much of the excess liquid out as possible. Then allow the fabric to dry out of direct sunlight.

Note, iron is a mild skin irritant and it will turn the skin around your nails a dark brown/black. I definitely recommend wearing gloves when working with iron water.

For more information, please check out my self-paced online Natural Dye Course.

1 Comment

  1. Verena September 16, 2019

    Jamie, I love – love – love your instagram-feed! <3 Thank you for having a blog as well and describing the process of dyeing natural so well! I would like to dye some of my daughters clothes, that we inherited and don't look so nice…Maybe you could do a blogpost about that topic! 🙂
    I have mordanted the clothes with soy milk like you described and boiled some dryed Hibiscus-Tea-leaves in water. Now I would like to dye the clothes in it…
    Now my question is:
    How do I make the colour last for a long time? Do I have to add salt in the end? Or do I just let the clothes sit in the dye and then let them dry before I rinse like your described and that will be enough for the colour to stay?
    Thank you for your help!! 🙂


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